Vegan meets Caribbean

By Cristina Garcia
Adelante Staff Writer

JENNA BUSEY/ Adelante Jesse Berrios' Arroz con Gandules is a vegan spin on a Puerto Rican meal.

Onion, bell pepper and garlic release an aroma that any kitchen would be proud of. Together, known as sofrito, the fragrant mixture is often found in Puerto Rican dishes. Jesse Berrios, an MU English major, uses a wooden spoon to ease the flavors out into the pan.
“For me there is something artistic about cooking,” Berrios said.
It is said that in true Puerto Rican rice dishes, every grain of rice must be coated in fat. Berrios is a Puerto Rican American, and while the fusion of Puerto Rican dishes and American food could conceivably birth a gastronomical heavyweight, Berrios does not comply. He is vegan, which means he is a vegetarian who uses no animal products.
Berrios grew up in St. Louis, but maintaines a strong connection to his Caribbean roots. He became vegan in his junior year of high school. Although it was a challenge at first, Berrios says it has not made eating more difficult, but more interesting.

other puerto rican favorites Mofongo: A dish made of mashed plantains, garlic and pork cracklings. Bacalaítos fritos: Fried codfish fritter Pastelillos: Fried cheese and meat turnovers Alcapurrias: Banana croquettes stuffed with beef or pork. Platanutres: Fried plantain chips. Asopao: A hearty gumbo made with chicken or shellfish. The heart in many Puerto Rican dishes comes from adobo and sofrito – blends of herbs, spices and vegetables that give a distinct color and taste to native dishes. Specialty grocery stores often carry pre-made versions in the spice aisle. Adobo: Used as a rub for meats. Made by crushing together peppercorns, oregano, garlic, salt, olive oil and lime juice or vinegar. Sofrito: Gives a yellow hue to a dish. Made by browning onions, garlic, coriander, achiote, and peppers in olive oil. Achiote or annatto: This tropical shrub or small tree bears a fruit with numerous seeds. Although the fruit is inedible it is grown for an orange-red pulp that covers the seeds. The pulp makes a good dye. — Cristina Garcia www.adelanteonline.com

“I have to be a lot more conscious of what I’m eating,” he said.
Some relatives act as though by giving up meat he has in essence lost a relative. So intrinsic is heavy, meat-laden food in Puerto Rico that it is the invisible family member.
One of his favorite dishes needs only minor alterations to meet his diet; arroz con gandules is a staple Puerto Rican dish.
“I always call my mom when I’m making it,” Berrios said. “There’s no precise measurement; we just kind of do things for feel and for sight.”
Puerto Ricans cook rice dishes for an extended period of time over a very low heat. The result is a golden brown-crusted bottom or pegado, which literally means “stuck to.”
“We used to fight over it at the end — it’s the best part,” Berrios said as he used his mother’s knuckle test to check the level of water in the pot. To the sofrito, Berrios added gandules — also known as pigeon peas — rice, tomato sauce and a pre-packaged mix of spices. As he added the water he touched a finger to the rice and continued pouring until the water level rose to the first joint in his finger.
With the right amount of water in the pot, he brings it all to a boil and stirs, adding salt from a mound he has made in his hand. He stirs some more and tastes the broth.
“Ah, that’s perfect,” Berrios said, putting down the spoon and covering the pot. Sometimes people add chorizo or pieces of ham. Berrios has served the dish in vegan style to friends and has never received a complaint.
For Berrios, arroz con gandules is a comfort food; it reminds him of his childhood and of time spent in Puerto Rico.
“Really any meal with family is memorable,” Berrios said.

Arroz con Gandules (serves 8)

Ingredients

• 2 cups long or short grain rice (rinsed)
• 3 cups water
• 2 tablespoons sofrito*
• 16-ounce can of gandules (pigeon peas)
• 1 packet of Sa-són Accent with cilantro and achiote (annatto) (Available in the ethnic section of some grocery stores.)
• 1 ounce tomato sauce
• 2 tablespoons oil
• Salt to taste

*Sofrito

• 1 green bell pepper
• 1 medium onion
• 6 cloves of garlic
• cilantro

Preparation

In a medium-sized pot add the oil, tomato sauce, sofrito and Sa-són. Add all other ingredients; add enough water to the pot to submerge the rice one inch below the water. (A good test is the finger joint test. Put your index finger into the water till your finger touches the rice. The water should be up to your first joint.) Cook at medium heat for 4 minutes. Start with 1 teaspoon of salt, stir and keep adding and mixing well until you are satisfied with the taste. Bring to a boil and allow most of the water to be absorbed. Once the water has been absorbed, stir gently from bottom to top, cover and turn the heat down to low. Keep covered and cook for 25 to 30 minutes or until the rice is tender, stirring only once. Garnish with a chiffonade of cilantro and serve hot.